Canyon Creek: 6-8 July, 2022
John Engelhardt, the original leader, missed the opportunity to do this trip but will take advantage of the trip report to do it another time. Maria Geigel agreed to lead it, having been on all of the previous five BIG trips to Canyon Creek. See 2011, 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2018 trip reports. Maria was joined by Tony Davis, Kate Jackson and Barb Settles.
The trip was planned as a 4-day outing, modeled on the last 3 trips: Day 1, drive 4 hours to trailhead and backpack 6 mi, 2000’ elevation gain to the junction of Canyon Creek Lakes trail and Boulder Creek Lakes trail; Day 2, day hike 2mi, 800’ up to Canyon Creek Lakes; Day 3, day hike also 2mi, 800’ up to Boulder Creek Lakes; Day 4, back to the trailhead with lunch at Weaverville. The short-distance day hikes allow time for exploring the many falls; swimming in the lakes; basking in the sun; reflecting on the sheer granite slabs; meditating on benches overlooking the lakes; enjoying views of Sawtooth Mountain (8886’), Sawtooth Ridge, Thompson Peak (9002’), Wedding Cake (8592’); hiking to L Lake above Canyon Creek Lakes, and Forbidden Lake above Boulder Creek Lakes; and just relaxing in the incredibly beautiful setting. In 2014, some of the group climbed Mt. Hilton (8964’).
There were heavy rains in Oregon and California the weekend before our planned Tuesday departure. Considering what that could mean for creek crossings, the 40-50% chance of rain for Tuesday (small amount in Weaverville but more in the high country), and the no-doubt decreased visibility of the beautiful terrain, we decided to postpone our departure until Wednesday. Unfortunately, the group could not extend the trip through Saturday, so we made it a 3-day trip, doing the two day hikes on Day 2. We started up the Boulder Creek Lakes trail at 8am, had lunch at camp, then started up the Canyon Creek Lakes trail at 1pm, getting back to camp before 6pm. This turned out to be very doable, though we missed all the lolling around, frolicking, and relaxing we would have done if we’d had more time. It’s nice to know that you can see the whole area in 3 days, if need be.
There was poison oak in the lower part of the trail, but it was avoidable if you kept an eye out for it. Mosquitoes in the early evenings were noticeable but not outrageous, easily controlled by mosquito hats or repellant. We knew we needed water-shoes for wading across the creek to get to Boulder Creek lakes and we were prepared but, because Maria had not had any difficulty with creek crossing on the way to Canyon Creek Lakes on any of her previous trips, she said we could leave them at camp. What we didn’t consider was the rain the previous several days that made the creek we needed to cross on the way to Canyon Creek Lakes quite high. Fortunately, we watched another group successfully cross using a log that was wet and didn’t look like it would hold a person’s weight so we followed in their footsteps. Lesson learned: always be prepared.
Having affably adapted to the several change in plans, we had one last test of our good natures. Early on our last morning, a very large black bear clawed his way into Barb’s Ursack, which was hanging in a tree. Our screams, whistles and banging on pots did not deter him and she lost almost all of her remaining food. He finally left camp and Tony and Maria scurried to retrieve their Ursacks from nearby trees. Kate had brought a bear canister. The bear returned a couple of times, so we took turns watching for him while breaking camp. One of our ideas for doing the two day hikes in 3 days had been to do the Boulder Creek Lakes trail on Day 3 before backpacking out. We were glad that we had decided to do the two day hikes on Day 2 and were on our way out when we had the bear encounter. So much for the video on https://ursack.com/pages/field-tests that shows two bears fighting over an Ursack, which resists being punctured. The website does acknowledge that bears are extremely smart and can be very determined so sometimes their products will fail in the field, so they will replace any Ursack bag that doesn’t meet their standard in the wild.
Lesson learned: carefully consider bear protection needed in the area you are visiting. Although the Ursack was developed to avoid the need to hang your food where a bear cannot reach it nor climb to it, doing so would be safer than hanging it within reach. Although heavy and bulky, a bear canister would be safest.
On our way out on Friday morning, we encountered roughly 20 people backpacking in. This is not unexpected for a weekend. What surprised us was that on Wednesday and Thursday we saw only two couples who had backpacked in and six hikers who were doing the 16 mi round trip to Canyon Creek Lakes as a day hike, having camped at Ripstein camp ground ~4 mi from the Canyon Creek Lakes trailhead. Fewer people visit mid-week but the inordinately small number during our trip was probably due to the weather.
Photos coming soon!
Caribou Lakes, Trinity Alps; 13-15 July, 2021
July 13–15, 2021
Participants: Tony Davis, Maria Geigel, Taylor Poynter, Nancy (Gigi) Green, and Barb Settles (trip coordinator)
Elevation Gain: via New Caribou Lakes Trail, about 1600’ net elevation gain to campsite (5200′ at Big Flat Trailhead – 6800′ at Snowslide Lake)
Length: about 9 miles (one-way) from Big Flat Trailhead to Snowslide Lake; less than a mile to Caribou Lake, and about one more mile to Sawtooth Ridge
Difficulty: moderate until the last 3 miles, then a bit more strenuous
July 13, dawned fair with the promise of low-levels of smoke in the Trinity Alps. The group of five was driven by Maria up Coffee Creek Rd. to Big Flat Trailhead, a 3.5 hr. trip. The New Caribou Lakes Trail was chosen as it is less steep, though a few miles longer. We started up at 11:00, in the heat of the day although it was shaded and pleasant through red fir, Jeffrey pine, and western hemlock for the most part. Maria Geigel had been on the trail years ago and served as a good source of information in making our decisions as to where to get water and where to consider camping. We hiked up to Browns Meadow, around mile 6, rested at the stream, were entertained by a visiting grouse and her four younglings vying for water. It was 3:00 and Maria suggested that we carry on to the cool blue of Caribou Lake, which we did.
The last 3 miles were mostly on steps carved out by blasts and steps of granite which looked as if they had been the handiwork of Nepalese trail builders. We reached the lakes after a difficult trek in the heat and made camp at Snowslide Lake, which was smoke free and nearly hiker free. We found an excellent campsite, with shady, level spots and a more open area with rocks for cooking and congregating. Mosquitoes were barely present.
The many lakes in the basin shimmered a welcome and we all swam: a soothing reward for our efforts of the day. Tony had “placed” a prized beer in a shallow pocket on the shore, hoping it would be cooled for his taste in an hour or so; however, Nancy and Taylor happened on that can of beer and slurped it down without hesitation. It was with great chagrin that they swallowed the last drops when Tony appeared. Surprised and thirsty, Tony accepted the state of “ finders, keepers,” but was assured of reparation at the end of the trip in Etna.
Some of the group used stoves, no fires were allowed in meal preparation. After a brilliant sunset with the rock amphitheater of the lake as a backdrop, we settled down to the refreshing night under the stars.
July 14 was a brilliant day, as we went up to Upper Caribou Lake, a large glacier-carved backdrop held us in awe, after about a mile of upward trail through the white rocks. Barb’s Steripen had gone out, so Maria and Tony went back to camp for other water purification devices, and three of us swam in a warm shallow lake aside Upper Caribou Lake. The setting was stunning.
When we had our water supply sorted out, our daypacks back on, and a guess as to how to get up to the Sawtooth Ridge, up we went. It was a difficult go, as after about 1/3 of the distance, the cairned trail petered out. We made our way up the slick rock and boulders, steeply until we all neared the ridge top. Tony and Nancy chose to wait near the top while three others went up to see the valley on the other side, showing off the incredibly formidable Sawtooth Ridge with Emerald and Sapphire Lakes and Morris Meadows nestled in her hold.
We managed a much easier way down to Big Caribou and swam in the side lake in delight, as the air was smoke-free and the water was refreshing.
Our discussion for the next day varied from staying another night in the region, to going on out, as we had the option of staying longer but were thoroughly satisfied with the trip through the granite walls under the watch of Thompson Peak. After another fancy sunset, we had the peace of the night to ourselves.
On July 15, with even bluer skies than the other days, we marched up and out of the basin for a 9:00 start and came upon several groups of hikers heading for “our” lakes. After nearly 5 hours, we reached the South Fork Salmon River near the parking lot, which afforded us a cool rest in the water. The trip was over. Without too much discussion, the possibility of going up to Ward Lake and another night out was dismissed. We made our way to Etna to refresh ourselves at the Etna Brewing Co. The road back had a bit of blockage, enough to caution us, but we had a clear shot to our destination.
Breweries can be good spots, proven again, and we enjoyed our last gathering, treated by Taylor. Maria drove on and got us all home to Ashland by 6:00. She was an amazing trail guide and chauffeur, all of the participants did their parts in leading when they needed to, and the lakes were well appreciated. It was a good trip, thanks to BIG.
Big Flat Trailhead 
An interesting insect (anyone know what it is, exactly?) greets Taylor as we set out. 
Photographing the interesting insect 
Lunch break on the New Caribou Trail 
Near the junction of the New Caribou Trail and the old trail, now largely out of use 
The New Caribou Trail skirts Caribou Mountain, and offers some wonderful views (here partly obscured by haze). 
On the New Caribou Trail, shortly before reaching Brown’s Meadow 
Blue grouse at Brown’s Meadow 
The grouse approaches the small creek at Brown’s Meadow, where we stopped for a break. 
The grouse wasn’t terribly afraid of humans. 
Her youngsters showed up for a drink, too. 
Western tanager at Brown’s Meadow 
The creek was a great place for a drink. 
Vistas of the Trinity Alps open up as we round Caribou Mountain. 
The last few miles of the New Caribou Trail involve a fair amount of rocky up and down. 
The Caribou Lakes are visible, but it’s still a ways to go before the trail descend to them. 
Our campsite had a nice central area, with lots of flat rocks. 
Tony found a secluded spot for his tent. 
Snowslide Lake near sunset 
The beautiful setting of Snowslide Lake 
More of Snowslide Lake 
Sunset over Lower Caribou Lake 
Veins in granite, on the trail to Caribou Lake 
Maria confronts some big steps on the way to Caribou Lake. 
Caribou Lake, one of the largest in the Trinity Alps. 
Succulents (anyone know what they are?) near Caribou Lake 
View of the notch, above Caribou Lake 
A small pool below the notch 
Finding our way up to the notch 
The Sawtooths, separating the Caribou Lakes basin from Emerald and Sapphire Lakes 
Barb points out a vestigial patch of snow as we ascend towards the notch. 
Caribou Lake, from near the top of the ridge 
A golden mantled ground squirrel enjoys lunch in a shady spot near the top of the ridge. 
Emerald lake, on the other side of the ridge 
poolside relaxation, after descending from the notch 
Sunset on the rocks near our campsite 
Snowslide and Lower Caribou Lakes, as we depart 
The air was clearer on the way back, offering some great views of the Trinity Alps. 
Butterfly at Brown’s Meadow 
Refreshing water of the South Fork Salmon River, just before reaching the end 
There wasn’t much water in the South Fork Salmon, but it sure felt good. 
South Fork Salmon River 
This big boulder makes a good backdrop.
Union Creek, Trinity Alps; Jun 18-20, 2020
Hikers: Maria G., Steve W., Tony D.
Photo credits: Maria, Tony
We visited this same delightful uncrowded area in the Trinities in 2015. In contrast to that previous trip, we camped on Union Creek rather than Union Lake to facilitate day hikes: 1) a loop around Sugar Pine Lake rather than just to/from Foster Lake, and 2) a loop to Landers Lake, Red Rock Mountain and Union Lake rather than just to/from Landers Lake.
Day 1: 6 mi; 1700’ elev gain
Union Creek TH [top] to Union Creek junction (w/ Foster, Landers) [waypoint at bottom]
After an unexpected return to Ashland to retrieve forgotten items, we left Union Creek TH (off Coffee Creek road) at noon. We stopped for water several times along creeks to cool off and reached the campsite at 4pm — there were good spots for 2-4 tents. For happy hour, we enjoyed creek-chilled beers. When more than a few mosquitoes appeared, we retreated to our tents around 8pm while still light
Day 2: Sugar Pine Lake Loop
Trip 29 in Falcon Guide Hiking California’s Trinity Alps: Union Creek – 1.5 mi to Foster Lake – 1 mi. x-country over a saddle to Sugar Pine Lake – 2 mi on Sugar Pine Lake trail – 4.5 Battle Canyon trail – Union Creek.
We left camp at 8am for what turned out to be an exhausting adventure with 10.7 mi. 3,450’ elev gain and not just 1 mi. of x-country but a LOT of bush whacking around Sugar Pine Lake and on Battle Canyon trail. We’d go so far as to say the Battle Canyon trail is now non-existent although it is on USGS maps and signed (at each end).
We stopped at Foster Lake for water and to admire the view and the granite Adirondack chairs. Upon reaching the overlook for Lion Lake, we looked for signs of the x-country route mentioned in the Falcon Guide but did not find any obvious path, so contoured up the slope using Gaia GPS, which was essential throughout the day to find our way. There was a LOT of unavoidable brush. Falcon guide suggests that it’s possible to trade-off brush for more elevation gain by descending the main trail farther (toward Conway Lake) before ascending. With wonderful hindsight, that may have been better as we expended a lot of time and energy bush whacking.
After lunch at the saddle ~12:30pm, we discussed whether to bail out on the route and back track or continue. With Sugar Pine Lake in sight and refreshed by lunch, we decided to press on, based on calculation that we should be back at camp by 5pm and Falcon guide’s description of trek to Sugar Pine Lake as a “simple matter of picking your way down granite benches”. We were enticed by the promise of “a 360-degree-jaw-dropper” view of Shasta, Caribou Mt, Sawtooth Mt. from Battle Canyon saddle. As it turned out, the descent to the lake involved a lot of route-finding, which slowed us down, and more bush whacking as we neared lake. Arriving at the outlet of Sugar Pine Lake and the main trail, we heaved a sigh of relief.
Two miles later, we should have reached the Battle Canyon trail junction. However, a newer topo map showed the junction at an improbable place. After time-wasting backtracking and consulting an older topo we located the true junction. We discussed whether to continue 4+ mi. on Battle Canyon trail to camp, which we calculated we would reach ~ 7-8pm, or bail out, which meant ~6 mi. on Sugar Pine trail to Coffee Creek Road, several miles to our cars, and hopefully get rooms for the night at Trinity Center. We decided on the former, not knowing that the little-travelled Battle Canyon trail was comparable to a x-country route. In many sections, the “trail” was faint or virtually non-passable due to manzanita and other brush even though GPS told us we were right on it. We have a new-found appreciation for sawed logs, which occasionally confirmed we were on track.
After the final jaw-dropping saddle, we descended steeply along disappearing switchbacks with MORE slow-going bush-whacking. Fortunately, because it was the solstice, we had some light for our final descent but we had to talk to follow each other as we could not see in the dimming light. Exhausted, we reached our camp by headlamp at 9:40pm, very thankful to be safe.
A Few Lessons Reinforced / Learned
- Good planning, but expect the unexpected.
“The best-laid plans of mice and men often go awry.” ~Robert Burns - Importance of the 10 Essentials even for day hikes.
- Having good map(s) and GPS; for x-country & little-travelled trails, even more preparation;
“The map is not the territory” ~Alfred Korzybski - Group decisions & staying together; option: faster advance scout to speed route finding
Day 3
6 mi. ~1 mi. x-country, 1800′ elev gain day hike to Landers Lake, possibly ascending Red Rock Mountain, then x-country over saddle to Union Lake, and back to camp.
However, fatigued and sore from the previous day’s epic excursion, we decided to cut the trip short. There was a leisurely 2 mi. hike in the morning to Union Lake, where we encountered the only other humans we saw on the trip, a group of 4 camping at Union Lake. After a hot lunch at camp, we were back at our cars at 5pm, and in Ashland at 7:30pm.
Ltbackpackers 