North Umpqua, Thielsen Wilderness; Jul 29-Aug 1, 2019
(in lieu of planned trip to E. Boulder Lake)
Hikers: Elisabeth Z., Rosalie R., Cory R., Greg C., Dick and Linda T.
Particulars: Drove 230 miles RT; Backpacked 3 miles to Dutch Oven Camp; Day 1 Hike 12 miles RT; Day 2 Hike 6 miles RT.
Partnership: All six of us participated in decisions about our recast journey northeast and into the wilderness. Each assumed leadership for one thing or another on the trail and in camp. A joy to enjoy such partnership with old and new friends.
Poetic Report Writing: Cory revealed her impressive artistic poetry and prose in writing a daily journal, reading it to us each evening, and providing the following account of our trip. Rosalie contributed this fun title.
The Fish Weren’t Biting but the Mosquitoes Were!
Preface:
Six hikers planned a tried and true trip to E. Boulder Lake
But an errant campfire smoked everything south.
Our fearless leader researched the North Umpqua
And we came along gathering info from Sullivan’s book
And a conversation at Diamond Lake Resort
Deciding to go east to Lemolo Lake and the Kelsay Trailhead
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Dusty track almost disappointed
Our quest to backpack near water
Away from the road and campground crowds
Then, scouting ahead revealed trails converging at Dutch Oven Camp n
Next to the North Umpqua on the edge of the Mt. Thielson Wilderness
Five tents, snacks, water, aaah, relaxingRustling winds rock high fir tops punctuating
The constant creek babbling on its way
Azure skies above so clear north of MP 97.
Oh, and did I say mosquitoes? Lots!Lying in my tent, a bug with antennae longer than its body
Scurries up the screen below the fly, trapping itself
Looking and looking for a way out or maybe it’s just exploring
Occasionally taking quick short flights.
An ant crawls past, a bee buzzes by
And our bug still crawls around.Over packaged dinners, we share stories and lives
A poem, solar lights, another route to the water, a future hike.
So early, we head to bed satisfied with our dusty day.
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Morning cold–how can it be after the hot dusty day before?
An adventure to the lakes after breakfast
And more water making.The sun filters through the high tree gaps
Where in the night the brilliant field of stars gleamed.
Hiking out the mountain goats skip across the creek
While those of us with clay feet go over the rocks.
Quite flat and dusty for a while then up, up, up
Slowly and steadily into stunning conifer forests–
Wishing to identify each of the varied species,
Having lists in our heads not matching what we see.
Abundant wildflowers, the creek close and far,
Are we really headed to Lucile Lake?Two young women and a great black shepherd
Started at Miller Lake in the dark the night before,
A camo man with frightened, angry pup
Talked about putting out salt and game cams–
We had seen a large, clear cougar print along the trail…
Along with plenty of horse evidence.
Oh, and did I say mosquitoes?Crossing the creek on sturdy wooden bridges
Enjoying the burble, finally seeing LUCILE
On one of the quaint wooden signs.
“You picked a fine time to leave me Lucille*”
Reverberated in my head as we came upon
A stunning emerald kettle lake surrounded by forest
Perfect for picnicking, swimming, wading, resting, fish scouting and lunch.Some couldn’t resist the proximity of Maidu Lake
And headed on seeing snowy and graveled peaks in the distance,
Glaciated rock piles cascading off the side of the trail.
“OK, it’s 30 minutes” “But we stopped for photos, just 5 more”
“Let’s look just around that bend”
Yes, there it was! Gorgeous
With the biggest glops of the fattest tadpoles we had ever seen!
They swarmed by the edge in a downed log corral,
Groups detached and took off for other spots in the sun-warmed shallows.
Walking down, we spotted our secret 3X message
Saying that our friends had gone ahead.
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The case of the missing trowel:
Unearthed in the jumble of the shared tent
After sharing had been arranged among others–
Meant for digging duff, not shoveling shit, of course!
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Next morning’s dappled sun filters through
Our camp slowly wakes up, and easy day ahead
To “L’il Indian Camp” another delicious unknown.
Diverse riparian edge of the stream, glorious wildflowers
Gradual upslope with a mossy green water stop
By a sturdy bridge, another along the way
The trail blocked in a few places by the ubiquitous blow-down
Cleared in some places, mysterious chainsaws on wilderness land.Flat, wide, spacious L’il Indian Camp appeared
At a sharp turn to the PCT next to a marshy meadow
A corral that was actually more downed logs
A lunch stop shortly after snack, bleached bones and
Plenty of sapsucker holes bleeding old sap.
Oh, and did I say mosquitoes?On the way home: “Bear” shouts one as others
Look up from their grasshoppers and the rest of us catch up
All too late as the bear was running upslope when spottedTurkey feathers on the ground, many paper wasps nests
Much flora and fauna to investigate.
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That night the Steripens were persnickety (see Tilley hat)
And a Sawyer washer saggy but we pulled through with alternates.
A plan for departure? No time! Let’s just ease into it,
Keep the relaxation going. And we got off just fine.
Walking out with a couple of water breaks
We were suddenly at the trailhead.
Funny how the return is usually so much quicker.
Oh, and did I say mosquitoes?
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Postscript
The much-discussed, highly-anticipated lunch at Lemolo Lodge
Moved to Diamond Lake Resort
Since the Lodge had a flue fire and became a KOA
Whitecaps and wind, hot water, fresh salads and
CRISPY fries went down well, followed by pie at Becky’s
And a good time was had by all.Thanks to everyone who made it special!
—–
*Lucile for the lake, Lucille for the song…
North Umpqua, Jun 14-17, 2018
Hikers: Barb S. — and Jan, Bernadette (not BIG members)
Route: 30 miles from Kelsay Valley to Soda Springs Dam, East to West
We hiked this section of trail, in three sections, having made arrangements with Last Resort to shuttle our car from Kelsay to Soda trailheads. We drove from Ashland near Diamond Lake and took Rd. 2610 to find Kelsay Valley trailhead in a campground. We went along trail #1414 through a densely wooded area, crossed a highway, searched a bit for the trail when we crossed a river, and then proceeded through a burned section with plenty of mosquitoes. By 1:30, Bernadette was not well, feeling unable to hike on, so we called her husband to pick her up and we hiked slowly toward Lemolo Lake where he met us and took her home. Just two of us proceeded through a lovely waterfall-bestowed part of the trail. We had to make camp on a bridge, as we didn’t get to the good tent sites just 15 minutes away, which we found the next morning. However, we made camp and were serenaded by trickled water from seeps.
The second section is termed Dread and Terror and was the most spectacular part of the hike, as the BIG hikers in 2012 found also. We went up and down, but it seemed like mostly up, through seeps and ferns and lovely waterfalls. It was very special. We found a good campsite on the river just two miles shy of the Umpqua Hotsprings, as the Forest Service did not allow camping any closer than that and held fast to that rule. The next morning on our way to the baths, the campsites we passed were just great but empty, as they were within the two mile range.
The third section was deemed difficult as we were going steeply uphill more than down. It went by Toketee Campgrounds and Toketee Reservoir, and was near the waterfalls. We were able to have a nice soak in the hot springs and found the night’s campsite easily, just 2 miles shy of our destination. That campsite was mossy and tree-covered, by the river and pretty wonderful.
The last day was a short hike down to the car, where the columnar hexagonal rock formations were majestic. Of course the huge Pacific Power Plant was there too, reminding us that everything comes with a cost, lovely trails were made with their help, and we were able to see the astounding rock formations, which we may not have had the power plant not have made it accessible to all of us. We had a fine coffee in Glide and carried on home, glad to have seen the Scenic Byway with backpacks.
North Umpqua Camping – Flowers, Ferns and Fire
Mary E., Chiyemi D., Bill D., George H. and Terry D. spent three days on the North Umpqua River in Douglas County, a couple hour drive northeast of Ashland. One hesitates to call this backpacking even though it was enjoyed as much and the preparation was identical. I suppose it was the 0.5 mile hike in to the campsite. If you forgot your sunglasses, it was easy enough to walk back to the cars to get them.
There was an abundance of water, both cold and hot: river and hot springs respectively. Water made the moss and ferns luxuriously deep and glowing green everywhere one looked. Two hikes: one upriver an hour (where we found the dragon – see picture) on the first afternoon and then to the hot springs arranged in a series of 5 or 6 hot-tub sized pools the next morning where bathing suits were definitely optional.
Chiyemi gave fire-building lessons and all enjoyed the warmth in the cool evenings and mornings. Very light sprinkle the second (and last) night but always bright sun-shiny days. The canyon of the river kept light out of the campsite until 10am and the sun disappeared over the western ridge early in the long midsummer evenings.
Bailey the wonder-dog accompanied us and was a delight to all with his friendliness and love of attention: petting was required by all. The final stop was at Beckies in Union Creek for lunch on Tuesday. See the last chair photos. A gallery of photos is below the slideshow if you want to enjoy just a few pictures.
Ltbackpackers 